The used car buyer’s survival guide
Caveat emptor, or ‘buyer beware’ should be top of the list. According to British law, if you buy secondhand car that turns out to be a pup, it’s your fault. So, here’s our used car buying survival guide…
Paperwork.
The more, the better. If someone’s gone to the trouble of keeping receipts, old tax discs, MOTs and so on, chances are they’ll have been as particular with the car itself. Take the time to scan through the papers, as they can tell you a lot about what work has already been carried out and if there are any advisory notices on recent MOTs.
A full service history is always desirable. Again it means that someone has had the car serviced regularly and according to the manufacturer’s schedule.
With higher mileage cars, always make sure that the cam belt has either been replaced or when it will need doing. It’s usually an expensive job, which is why some owners are tempted to skip it, but should it fail while the car is running it can seriously damage the engine.
Buying used cars from a well-established dealer is always a good idea. You’ll may pay a little bit more than a private sale, but you will get a guarantee from a company with a hard-earned reputation to protect.
Never, ever buy a car without getting an HPI check. There are many companies around who can handle this and you can do it on your smartphone. This will tell you if the car is stolen, has been written off, if there’s any outstanding finance and confirms mileage. It’ll cost you about £10, but that’s a small price to pay compared to the police or a bailiff turning up at your home.
Check that the engine and chassis numbers match. The Vehicle Identity Number (VIN) is usually located on a plate at the front or the rear of the engine compartment. In modern cars the chassis number will be etched onto the windscreen. If there are any signs of either being tampered with, walk away. Another good reason to make a swift exit is if the VIN begins with SABTVRO, meaning that there may be a question mark over the vehicle’s identity.
Talking of which… be careful about insurance write-offs. Category A and B are a complete no-no, as they have been damaged so badly that they should never be returned to the road. Cat C and D are deemed by insurance companies as uneconomical to repair, but can be returned to the road. Again, caution is advised. While repaired Cat C and D vehicles have to undergo a Vehicle Identity Check, this is a test of identity not of the quality of repairs.
Take someone who knows what they’re talking about with you when viewing the car, preferably a qualified mechanic. Valeting a car can hide a multitude of sins, but a trained eye and ear can cut through the veneer of a recently washed and polished motor.
There is always a deal to be done, so there will always be some movement on the price or the finance package. Don’t be embarrassed to ask. And always be prepared to walk away. There is always another car round the corner and salespeople will always try to close the deal there and then. If you’re not sure, go home and sleep on it.
And remember, caveat emptor.
